Fresh Water Fly
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The Regulation Of Trout
Introduction
The context that currently applies to the regulation of trout in this country is one of revolutionary change. I say so because the mind-set and vision that informs decisions around trout today cannot be more different than that which applied say 30 years ago.
- 30 years ago trout were a protected species enjoying significant government support.
- Now in law at least they are condemned as invasive aliens and must either be eradicated or controlled for that purpose.
Kamberg Nymph
Kamberg Nymph |
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By Mike Blackhouse |
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Materials |
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| Hook | TMC 9300 #10 or equivalent |
| Thread | 3/0 tan or olive |
| Tail | Blood quill marabou olive together with a few Blood Quill marabou fibers in brown |
| Body | Same as for tail |
| Eyes | Tan chenille |
| Weight | 7 to 14 turns of .010 lead wire |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Lay a thread base from the eye to the bend of the hook building up the thread at the bend to support the tail.
2) Tie in the chenille eyes figure of eight style leaving the tags attached to be used later. 3) Wind in 7 to 14 turns of lead wire starting directly behind the eyes wrapping towards the bend. 4) Tie in olive and brown blood quill marabou. The tail should be 1.5 length of the hook shank. Make sure that the tail is tied in behind the thread mounting at the bend of the hook so it stands up proud and tail wrap is largely avoided. 5) Twist and wrap the rest of the marabou fibers back to the eye of the hook. Pull hard on the thread as you tie off so that the fly does not become unwound during use. 6) You will find that there is a very small gap between the tie off point and the eyes which will be filled with dubbed olive and brown marabou fibers. The next move is to tie off between the chenille eyes and at the eye of the hook. 7) It is important to have a good quality pair of curved scissors as the tail needs be cut to shape of a dragon abdomen and also this helps further to avoid tail wrap. |
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Papa Roach
Papa Roach |
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By Marco Breschi |
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Materials |
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| Hook | 3X shank-wide gape (wet/nymph type) in #6 or #8 |
| Thread | Olive or brown 0/6 |
| Tail | Zonker strip (part of the body) |
| Body | Olive or brown zonker strip (preferably short fibred) |
| Eyes | Large black, round plastic beads |
| Wing case | Olive or brown Mallard breast feathers (2 on each side) |
| Thorax/head | Olive/brown dubbing mixed with fur from zonker |
| Legs | Round rubber in olive or brown |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Lay a thread foundation to the gape of the hook and coat with a layer of head cement (Sally Hanson’s).
2) Tie in the eyes just behind the eye of the hook leaving sufficient space for tying off. 3) Select a suitable section of Zonker strip and measure off against the hook shank allowing only 3-4 mm skin to extend past the hook bend. This will help reduce/eliminate tail wrap. The rabbit hair will give the fly its length and shape. 4) Spread the hair fibers and tie in Zonker strip at the bend of the hook ensuring that only 3-4 mm skin extends past the hook bend. 5) Advance the thread forward to at least 4/5 of the way along the shank, spread the hair fibers and tie in the Zonker strip. Advance the thread further to within 4-5 mm of the eyes and complete the tie in of the Zonker strip. Apply some head cement to ensure the strip does not come undone when a fish is caught. This gap is necessary for you to tie in the wing case, the rubber legs and to dub the neck area. 6) Select 4 Mallard Breast feathers of approximately the same size and strip off only the bottom 2/3 of the feather, leaving the tip full. This ensures that no feather fibers extend below the hook shank. 7) Tie in 2 feathers on each side behind the eyes ensuring that the feathers meet up on top of the Zonker strip tent-wing style. The feathers should flank the Zonker strip along 1/3 of its length. This helps to contain the movement of the Zonker strip and to give the fly the correct shape. 8) Tie in a length of round rubber leg in the space between the eyes and the end of the Zonker strip and adjust/set to position the legs slanting forwards and backwards. Repeat this step on the other side of the hook shank. 9) Dub the neck area, separating the legs and between the eyes. Whip finish and tease out the dubbing so as to create a slight halo around the abdomen. 10) Nip out some of the long base fibers of the Zonker Strip to form a bluntish tail and adjust the length of the abdomen/thorax to 4/5 of total fly length. Rather have a longer abdomen than a too short one. |
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The PTN
The PTN (Pheasant Tailed Nymph) |
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By Warren Prior |
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Materials |
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| Hook | #12 – #16 nymph hook (a #14 was used in the demo fly) |
| Thread | Any fine brown thread – The colour must match the colour of the pheasant tail |
| Thorax | Peacock herl (or orange dubbing to tie an orange hot spot) |
| Tail, Body & Wing Casing | Pheasant tail |
| Ribbing | Copper wire |
| Head | An appropriately sized copper bead |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Begin by dropping a bead (I used copped) onto the hook and moving it up to the eye. The bead is important to weight the fly so choose an appropriate bead. Tungsten for example is great for fast moving and deeper waters. Other colour beads can also be experimented with.
2) Dress the hook shank with your chosen thread to provide a solid base to tie the materials onto. Then wind the thread down to the bend of the hook and tie a piece of copper wire which will be used to rib the body and will provide additional strength to the fly. 3) Next tie in around 4 – 6 strands of pheasant tail to create the tail of the fly. Generally the tail should be around the length of the hook shank. 4) Rather than trimming off the pheasant tail (and wasting it) we will use it to form the abdomen. Do so by winding the cotton up the hook to the where you wish the thorax to end (roughly a third of the way down the hook shank from the eye). Now wind the ends of the pheasant tail up to the cotton and tie them off. You can now trim off the remainder. 5) Counter wrap the copper wire over the thorax thus securely trapping it. Tie off the copper wire and trim off any excess. Pheasant tail is a relatively brittle material and often breaks when fighting a fish. This ribbing will therefore give the fly some extra life. Note: Counter wrapping means to wrap in the opposite direction to the material under it. This traps the material more efficiently than wrapping in the same direction. 6) Tie in another 6 strands of pheasant tail by the but, making sure they point towards the tail of the fly. These will be folded over the thorax and will eventually form the wing case and legs. 7) Tie in a few strands of peacock herl and build up a well shaped thorax using them. It should be roughly a third of the length of the fly. Tie these off behind the bead. Note: Dubbing in a thorax instead of using peacock herl provides some great alternative nymphs. If often dub in an orange thorax to tie a form of the orange hot spot for yellowfish. 8) Fold the strands of pheasant tail over the thorax and secure them behind the bead to form the wing casing. 9) At this point you can either cut off the ends of the pheasant tail, or split the strands into 2 groups and fold them down the sides of the fly to form legs. 10) Tie off the fly. You are done. |
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Peter Brigg’s Wolf Spider
Peter Brigg’s Wolf Spider |
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By Peter Brigg |
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Materials |
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| Hook | Grip 11011 BL #14 and #16 |
| Thread | Grip 11011 BL #14 and #16 |
| Body | Foam strip Approximately 3 to 4mm wide to suits fly size |
| Post | Antron or Z Lon |
| Hackle | Sparse ginger from a Cock Cape with fairly long fibers. |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Wrap hook shank with tying thread and attach foam strip at the bend of the hook opposite the barb.
2) You can add under body of peacock herl or dubbing of choice and then pull foam over and secure at a point approximately one third of the hook shank behind the eye. 3) Add post and hackle feather at the tie off point in 2 above. 4) Add legs behind the parachute post (important). First back legs in pairs of Pheasant tail fibers on either side and followed by front legs in the same way. Tie these loosely so that you can pull the butt ends to create the desired leg length for the size of fly, but keep them fairly long. Add a drop of super glue and take an extra couple of wraps to secure the legs before trimming the butt ends 5) Wrap the parachute hackle feather around post with about 4 wraps and tie off, before finally trimming post to desired length. |
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Traditional Soft Hackle
Traditional Soft Hackle |
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Materials |
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| Hook | Wet Fly #10 to #18 |
| Thread | 6/0 or finer (colour of choice) |
| Rib | Copper wire |
| Body | Natural Dubbing Colour of choice |
| Wing | Partridge Pheasant or hen Hackle |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Dress shank down to above the barb.
2) Tie in the ribbing. 3) Dub the thread forming a tapered noodle. Note: When viewing from the top the dubbing should be twisted in a clockwise direction to prevent unwinding as it is wrapped around the hook shank. (reverse for Left Handed) 4) Wrap the dubbing forward forming a tapered body. Leave enough room for the hackle and head. 5) Wrap the Ribbing forward through the body in the opposite direction. Tie off. 6) Prepare the feather by clamping the tip in hackle pliers. Then (with the small finger of the right hand in the hackle pliers loop and the left hand holding the feather taught) with the shiny side up using the thumb and fore finger of the right hand stroke the fibres down and back. Repeat the process until the fibres on both side of the quill are against each other. 7) Remove hackle pliers from the feather and tie the prepared feather in by the tip with fibres facing back and the quill vertical. 8) Now wrap the feather in 3 or 4 close wound wraps forward toward the hook eye and tie off. 9) Form a neat thread head, whip finish and varnish. |
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Klinkhammer Variant
Klinkhammer Variant |
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A trout fly variation tied by Peter Brigg. |
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Materials |
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| Hook | Partridge 15BNX ‘Klinkhamer Extreme’ 12-16 |
| Thread | Black 6/0 or finer |
| Shuck | Antron fibres or stretched slingwrap film |
| Body | Stripped Peacock Hurl |
| Rib | Fine Copper Wire |
| Wing | Closed cell foam and hackle |
| Thorax | Peacock Hurl |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Dress the hook shank with thread.2) Tie in the thin strip of foam on top of the hook about 1/3 back from the eye. Secure with fig of 8 wraps and then wrap around base above hook and fold upward to form a wing post.
3) Tie in the strands of antron at the bend of the hook to form the shuck. 4) At the same point tie in the rib and the stripped peacock hurl. 5) Wrap the hurl forward to behind the wing forming a tapered body and tie off. 6) Wrap the rib in even turns to the same point and tie off. 7) Tie in the hackle butt end under the wing and bend at 90 deg. so it is pointing toward you. 8) Tie one or two strands peacock hurl under wing and wrap behind and in front to form a neat thorax. Tie off. 9)Wrap the hackle around the base of the foam wing, tie off and form a small head with the thread. Whip finish and cement if desired. 10) Trim the foam wing to shape. |
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Backwater Bass Bent Back
Backwater Bass Bent Back |
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Materials |
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| Hook | Stinger 2/0 or bigger |
| Thread | Red or Olive 3/0 |
| Flash | Of Choice |
| Body | Chartreuse Cactus Chenille |
| Tail | Olive Buck tail and Peacock Hurl |
| Head | Red and Olive Hackle |
Tying Instructions |
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| 1) Prepare the hook by putting in a slight bend about 1/3 from eye. Bend just enough to get the hook to swim point up.
2) Starting right from within the bend of the hook wrap the cactus chenille forward to the bend and tie off. 3) Tie in a clump of buck tail on top of the shank at the bend. (hook point up). This must extend beyond the hook and also acts as a weed guard by protecting the hook point. 4) Tie in some flash above the buck tail. This can be slightly longer than the buck tail.. 5) Top of with 5 or 6 peacock hurls. 6) Just ahead of the Buck tail tie in a red hackle buy the base, curved side down and wrap forward in tight turns forming a neat collar. 7) Just in front of the red repeat with an Olive hackle. 8) Form a neat thread head, whip finish and cement. |
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Variation |
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No Name Nymph
No Name Nymph |
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This fly designed by Roger Baert was tied for us at the July 2007 meeting by Paul Leisegang |
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Materials |
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| Hook | Nymph #10 to #6 |
| Thread | Brown or Black 6/0 |
| Tail | Cock Hackle Short and Krystal Flash |
| Body | Short fibre synthetic Dubbing such as Antron (Sparse) |
| Rib | Gold Oval Tinsel |
| Thorax | Same as body (Heavier Application) |
| Wing Case | Swiss Straw – Raffia |
| Legs | Pick out underside of Thorax |
| Weight | Can be weighted with a few turns of lead if required. |
Tying Instructions |
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| If Required wrap 5 or 6 turns of lead around shank and position leading edge just under 1/2 way down shank.Dress the hook with tying thread to above the barb.Tie in a small bunch of the cock hackle for the tail at this point with a strand of krystal flash either side.Tie in the gold rib and clip into the material holder.
Lightly apply tack to the thread and touch the dubbing lightly to the thread. DO NOT OVER DUB. Now roll the dubbing onto the thread and wind up to about 2/3 from hook eye leaving space for thorax and head. Wrap the gold tinsel forward to this point and tie off . Tie in the raffia pointing back. Dub the thread more heavily this time and wrap forward forming the thorax. This should be fatter than the rear body section. Leave enough room for the head. Pull the raffia forward over the thorax to form a neat wing case and tie off. Form a small neat head with the thread and varnish with head cement. Pick out the dubbing under the thorax for the legs. |
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Polish Nymph
Polish Nymph |
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Fly tied by Jay Smit at the April 2007 meeting |
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Materials |
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| Hook | 3x curved nymph #10 – 14 |
| Thread | Hyperfine black or any suitable fine thread |
| Head | Brass Bead |
| Upper Body | Use rubber legs |
| Body | Two colours of thin wool or Fine Dubbed thread |
| Rib | Optional Clear Mono |
| Legs | Black Hackle |
| Thorax | Fine Rabbit |
| Weight | 6 turns Siman square lead (size dependant on weighting required) |
Tying Instructions |
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| Wrap 6 turns of square lead around shank and position leading edge 1/2 way down shank. Leave about 1 to 2 mm gap between lead and bead.Using 3/0 or heavier floss form wrap around lead forming a tapered body and tie off.Using a pair of pliers gently flatten the body in a horizontal plane.
Using the 6/0 thread tie in a rubber leg by its tip on the left side of the body nearest the head. Tie in all along the left side of the body and secure just behind the tapered body formed earlier. Snip off the excess leg and repeat on the right side of the body. Tie in one of the wool threads just behind the bead and tie in all along the left side of the body on top of the rubber going all the way back to behind the barb. Repeat with other colour wool on the right side of the body. Tie off the thread. The wool should be at least 150mm long. For details of the Polish weave method go to http://flyguysoutfitting.com/shuttleweave.html Invert he fly in the vice. (hook now upside down) Holding the lighter piece of wool in the left hand and the Darker in the right pull the Lighter over the body to the right, down and slightly back under your right hand. Now bring the Darker wool (Right Hand) slightly forward over the Lighter wool and down under the body and slightly up and back. Your arms should now be crossed with your right arm above the left. Now the tricky bit, keeping constant pressure on the thread bring the Lighter wool left handback over the top of the body and down under the Right hand. Push the left hand slightly back and bring the right hand toward you then down and back across to the right and slightly up always keeping constant tension on the thread. The first weave should now be complete. Repeat all the way up to just behind the bead forming a neat body with one colour on the top of the fly and the other underneath. Tie a simple knot behind the bead to prevent unraveling. Tie in the 6/0 thread just behind he knot. Enough wraps to stop the wool unraveling. Undo the knot in the wool tied earlier and clip away the excess wool in front of the thread. Tie in a small bunch of black hackle for the legs. Lightly apply tack to the thread and touch the dubbing lightly to the thread. DO NOT OVER DUB. Now wind the dubbing up to the bead forming the thorax and tie off. |
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D5 Creation