Archives
now browsing by author
ABC
ABC (Anything But Chartreuse) |
|
Another variation of the Crazy Charlie. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | SS #4 to #8 |
| Thread | 3/0 Burnt Orange |
| Eyes | Bead chain |
| Body | Orange flash |
| Wing | Burnt Orange Synthetic |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Dress shank of hook and tie in bead chain eyes.
2) Tie in the flash behind the eyes and form the body by wrapping back to above the barb and forward again to behind the eyes. Tie off the Flash. 3) Coat the body with Sally Hansen’s clear nail varnish. (Its a good idea to prepare a no. of bodies and let them dry before continuing) 4) Reverse the hook in the vice to ease application of the wing . 5) Tie in the wing Charlie Style ahead of the eyes and form a neat thread head. |
|
Crippled Dun
Crippled Dun |
|
A dry fly which does well for trout. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Dry Fly #10 to #18 |
| Thread | 6/0 or finer (colour of choice) |
| Chuck | Z-Lon Grey or Dark Grey polypropylene yarn |
| Body | Grey Z Lon Dubbing |
| Wing | White polypropylene yarn |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Dress shank down to above the barb.
2) Tie in the chuck, this should be longer than the hook the hook. 3) Tie in the wing leaving enough room for the head (about 1/4 from eye) using figure of 8 wraps. 4)Pull the wings upright and secure in this position using a few wraps of thread around the base. 5)Return the thread to the point where the shuck is tied in. Dub the thread forming a tapered noodle. Note: When viewing from the top the dubbing should be twisted in a clockwise direction to prevent unwinding as it is wrapped around the hook shank. (reverse for Left Handed tyers) 6) Wrap the dubbing forward forming a tapered body. 7) Tie in the hackle just behind the wing with the tip toward the back of the fly. 8) Dub the hoohshank right up to the eye forming the thorax and head. 9) Now wrap the hackle forward, two turns behing the wing and two turns in front, Tie off and whip finish. 10) Pull the wing upward and trim just above he hackle tips. 11) Turn the fly and trim the hackle directly below the body forming an inverted V when viewed from the front. |
|
Salty Bugger
Salty Bugger |
|
This fly is fished with a floating line in rip currents in surf, bays or estuaries. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Salt Water #2 to #4 |
| Thread | 3/0 White or mono. |
| Tail | White Marabou |
| Body | White Sparkle dubbing or dubbing brush. |
| Eyes | Brass Bead |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Crimp the hook barb and slide on a brass bead.
2) Dress the hook shank with thread down to above the barb. 3) Tie in the Marabou tail above the barb. A strand or 2 of flash can be added either side. 4) At the same point form a dubbing loop and using sparkle dubbing spin a bushy dubbing noodle. 5) Wrap this forward to the bead and tie off. 6) Pinch the marabou tail to length. |
|
The Good Doc’s Beetle
The Good Doc’s Beetle |
|
A local dry fly that is especially deadly for yellowfish. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Grip 12804 #12 to #16 |
| Thread | Black 3/0 |
| Upper Body | Sparkle Dubbing |
| Body | 2-3 mm Black High Density Foamb |
| Body Prep | Paint with Heritage Metalic Bronze |
| Legs | Brown or Furnace Hackle |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Prepare the foam by cutting into strips with a craft knife. The top should be beveled at 45 deg on both sides. (width to suit hook size)
2) Paint the prepared strips on both sides with the bronz metallic craft paint and hang to dry. Before it hardens give an overcoat of Heritage Seal Skin. 3) Hang the strips to dry. 4) Dress the shank of the hook with thread and before the paint hardens tie in a strip of foam behind the hook eye flat side up. 5) Stretch the foam back toward the bend of the hook and tie down the foam in open turns finishing above the barb with an no. of tight wraps. 6) Strip the filoplume off the hackle and tie in at this point with the tip facing back. 7) Form a dubbing noodle and dub over the foam underbody forward to behind the hook eye. 8) Palmer the hackle forward to the same point and tie off. 9)Pull the foam body over the top and tie off just behind the hook eye. 10) Clip the excess foam forming the beetles head. |
|
RAB
RAB |
|
One of SA’s most famous dry flies, the Red Arsed Bastard |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Dry Fly 12-16 |
| Thread | Red 6/0 or finer |
| Tail | Hackle Fibres |
| Body | Pheasant Tail |
| Legs | Pheasant Tail |
| Hackle | Brown or Furnace and White or Cream Hen |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Dress the hook shank with thread.
2) Tie in a mixture of white and brown hackle fibres above the barb. 3) Wrap the thread forward 1/3 of shank. 4) Tie in a bunch of about 5 pheasant tail fibres at their mid point with the tips pointing forward. 5) Wrap the butt ends of the pheasant tail forward forming a body and tie off . 6) Spread the pheasant tail tips evenly around the hook shank and secure in position with a few wraps. 7) Tie in the Brown hackle just ahead of the legs with the shiny side and tip facing back. 8) Tie in the other hackle behind the hook eye with tip facing forward (leave enough room for a small thread head) The thread should now be just behind the hook eye. 9)Wrap the brown hackle forward to where the thread is. 10) Wrap the thread back through the hackle to just in front of the legs. Trim off the brown hackle tip. 11) Now wrap the white hackle back through the brown hackle toward the legs then wrap the thread forward to behind the hook eye securing the hackle in place. 12) Form a small thread head and tie off. |
|
Tom’s Gully Fly
Tom’s Gully Fly |
|
Ties by Tom Gifford to fly fish gullies. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Gamakatsu SC15 #4 #2 |
| Thread | 3/0 or finer (colour of choice) Pref Red Head |
| Eyes | Black bead chain |
| Body | Yarn Colour of choice |
| Wing | Pearl Crystal Flash |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Dress shank of hook and tie in bead chain eyes.
2) Form a nice body with thread (colour of choice) behind the eyes. 3) Super glue or cement the body and eyes. (Its a good idea to prepare a no. of bodies and let the glue dry before continuing) 4) Reverse the hook in the vice to ease application of the wing . 5) Take a small pinch of pearl Crystal Flash and tie in between eyes and hook eye. 6) Form a neat thread head with preferably red thread. |
|
MSK (Mikes Scalie Killer)
MSK (Mikes Scalie Killer) |
|
A yellowfish variation of the woolly bugger. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Daiichi DHSS #3 or smaller |
| Thread | Chartreuse 3/0 or finer |
| Head | Tungsten Bead pref. faceted |
| Tail | Filoplume from Schlappen Hackle + Flash |
| Body | Sparkle dubbing |
| Rib | Fine Copper Wire (optional) |
| Wing Case | Flashabou |
| Legs | Teased out dubbing |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Thread bead onto hook and dress the hook shank with thread to above the barb.
2) Cut a bunch of filoplume from the base of a hen hackle. Tie this in above the barb using the pinch method. 3) Tie in one strand of flash either side of tail as well as the copper wire for rib if desired. 4) Form a dubbing noodle at the tail tie in point and wrap forward 2/3 along hook shank forming the body. 5) At this point tie in the flash for the wing case on top of the hook. 6) Carry on dubbing in front of the flash right up to the bead. 7) Pull the flash over the top forming the wing case and tie off behind the bead. 8) Keep wrapping the chartreuse thread behind the bead forming a neat chartreuse band behind the bead. 9)Whip finish and apply a small amount of head cement. 10) This fly is very effective for Natal Scalies especially when the water is not clear and can be tied in browns and greens. |
|
Flashy Profile
Flashy Profile |
|
A variation on the well known shad fly. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | 1/0 or 2/0 SS |
| Thread | Clear 3/0 (spook thread) |
| Tail | Synthetic Flash Fibre Blend white |
| Lateral Line | Pearlescent Flash |
| Wing | Synthetic Flash Fibre Blend Colour of choice |
| Head | Holographic Eyes and clear epoxy |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Tie in a small bunch of the synthetic fibres 2/3 down the hook shank.
2) Tie in a few strands of Pearlescent on top. 3) Tie in the wing slightly ahead of the first bunch and form a neat taper. 4) Form an Epoxy head and stick on the eyes. 5) Turn continuously or place in a rotary drier to prevent the epoxy from running. 6) When dry trim to shape. |
|
Marco’s Bass Muddler
Marco’s Bass Muddler |
|
Marco’s variation on the bass muddler. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | Size #4 long Shank |
| Thread | 3/0 Mono Colour to match |
| Overbody | Flourescent Fritz or Chenille (Crystal) |
| Wing | Deer Hair topped with Marabou and Peacock Herl |
| Collar | Spun Deer Hair |
| Head | Spun deer hair clipped to shape |
| Tail | Marabou or Bucktail (red orange chartreuse) |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1. Start thread above barb of hook and tie in flat section of foam.
2. Tie in the tail (1/3 length of hook shank) and fritz. Wind the thread forward to about 1/2 the shank length from the eye. 3. Wind the fritz forward over the foam and tie off at the same point. 4. Stack a clump of deer hair in a stacker and tie in directly in front of the Fritz on top of the hook. The tips should extend to the bend in the hook. 5. Tie in a small bunch of marabou directly over the deer hair (colour of choice) and 4-5 Peacock Herls directly on top of that. 6. Stack a thick clump of deer hair in the stacker and spin a collar around the hook shank. 7. Repeat the above step (stacking no longer required) over and over until the front third of the shank is covered. make sure to pack the hair tightly back after each application. 8. Tie off the thread behind the hook eye and apply a drop of head cement, then shape the head with scissors or a sharp razor blade. The larger the head and collar the better the pattern will float. Note: The collar particularly the bottom provides most of the buoyancy to the fly. Clipping the bottom close to the hook shank results in a loss of buoyancy thus allowing the fly to fish sub surface. |
|
Fishing Instructions |
|
| Due to the wind resistance of the pattern at least a 5/6 weight rod is required. Cast in the direction of the bank (as close as possible) or structure, allow to settle for a few seconds then give a a few rapid short strips interspersed with pauses of a few seconds. Continue to strip until over the drop off and the repeat the sequence gradually covering all the water in front of you. The idea is to create sufficient disturbance to test the agression of the bass. By the way many a wary trout has been caught in the shallows in the early morning and late evenings on windy/stormy days. | |
Fire Tiger Clouser
Fire Tiger Clouser |
|
A fantastic tigerfish fly. |
|
|
|
|
Materials |
|
| Hook | 1/0 SS |
| Thread | Red Or Clear 3/0 |
| Tail | 4 strands of Burnt Orange Crystal Flash |
| Body | Red Floss |
| Wing | Yellow Chartreuse and Dark Buck tail |
| Eyes | Dumbbell Eyes |
Tying Instructions |
|
| 1) Tie in the Dumbbell eyes behind the eye leaving room for the head.
2) Tie in 4 strands of crystal flash for the tail above the hook barb. 3) Dress the hook shank with a few layers of red floss and paint on a few layers of Sally Hanson’s. 4) When this has dried. Reverse the hook in the jaws and tie in a small bunch of yellow buck tail in front of the eyes. At this point a few strands of flash can be added. 5) Tie in a small bunch of Chartreuse buck tail on top of the Yellow and an even smaller bunch of a dark coloured buck tail to complete the wing. 6) Finish off the head with red or chartreuse thread and apply your favourite head cement. |
|
D5 Creation